How do you make a mangonel

Up until now you have built the worlds most uncomfortable lawn chair. Its time to lace up the beast. Take your rope and run it through the skein hole on one side of the Mangonel.

Run it through the middle to the other side. Now leave a bit of a loop outside the frame and run the rope back through the hole.

Do the same on the other side. Once you either a. I used a double fishermans knot. This is the finger pinching, teeth cracking part. We are going to make the string spring from the skein of rope we just wound. I started off using a crowbar to get more leverage. Probably best to stop then.

I used a lacrosse stick head. If you have one laying around then shave down the arm until the head fits. If you use something else, just bolt it to the arm. Adjusting the head will affect the release angle of the projectile.

I had to adjust the pouch of the lacrosse stick to make it deeper, the first shot line drived it into my yard about 10 yrds out and about took out a flock of chickens. The wonderful thing about triggers is triggers are wonderful things. Use a long string on the trigger. And find something to shield yourself for the first shot.

Definitely do not let anyone stand directly behind it until you know how its going to release. I had one that fired straight backwards, one that shot straight up, and one that drove it straight into the ground right in front of the Mangonel. The head will likely need adjustment to get to the 45 degree release angle, just keep adjusting and firing until you get it.

Once you get it dialed in, anything is fair game. After the adjustments we were able to fling rocks, chunks of brick, concrete skulls, sections of logs, and lacrosse balls…. Oddly enough lacrosse balls worked the best. Our first trial shots had us flinging them about ft. I put the gorilla hand to the torsion box again and tightened the skein string spring two more rotations. My wife asked me how on earth I was gonna fire it if I tightened it more. No, not her, I was gonna use a winch.

Cest la vie. I should have gone with my gut and made it from whole trees. It amazes me how much torque you can generate with such small components. I destroyed two Mangonels in as many days by twisting string.

The power generated is astonishing. But remember, with great power comes great responsibility. It's wonderfool! You can increase range of shot using sling-whip like showed on picture.

By eciton Follow. More by the author:. Now… that aside… hold my beer…. I wish I had gone with my gut. Wood glue. Torsion catapults, which is the technical name for a normal catapult, have historically been built with heavy, reinforced sides, as these would allow for heavier payload, greater tensile force, and greater stability.

Cut your plywood supports. For the base of this catapult, you will use a 2x4 base supported with plywood triangles. Choose the right material for your throwing arm. Traditionally, spruce or fir wood were used for the throwing arm, as these woods were light and strong. Consult your local lumberyard to see if these are an affordable option and, if not, ask for some alternatives, two of which follow: Thick PVC pipe Metal pipe lightweight, durable. Cut your torsion handles.

You will need rope torsion to provide the launching force for your catapult. The more twists, the greater the torque, the more power your catapult will have. The amount of torsion twisting you can achieve is limited only by your strength and the strength of the materials you've used in making your catapult. Part 2. Lay out the right side of your base. Position your 36" 2x4 flat, longways on your workbench or another suitable sturdy surface.

Place your 18" 2x4 at a right angle to your 36" piece at 15" from the end of the 36" piece and screw them into place. Attach your plywood triangle. Place it atop your 2x4 planks. The 18" side of your plywood will be vertical to your 36" plank, its base parallel with the 36" plank, and its diagonal will approximately span the distance between the two ends each 2x4 plank.

Screw down your triangle securely to your 2x4s. This forms one base leg of your catapult. Lay out the left side of your base and affix your other triangular plywood piece. In the same fashion you constructed the right side, put your 36" and 18" 2x4 planks at a right angle 15" from the end of the long piece, and screw your triangular plywood piece into place atop the two 2x4 planks, with the base parallel to the 36" 2x4.

Connect the left and right sides of the base. Using your two 15" long 2x4 planks, screw your left and right side, with the base of your triangle and base of your 36" 2x4 forming the bottom, leaving the hypotenuse the diagonal facing up. Use long screws to ensure your frame is sturdy. Do not use nails for this part of your frame.

Nails are sensitive to the stress your catapult will exert, and could come loose over time. Part 3. Turn your base right-side up. Now that you have your frame constructed, you will begin working on constructing the throwing arm. The top side of your catapult will have the 18" vertical boards pointing straight up, and your 36" boards laying flat edgewise.

Screw in a cross brace between the sides. The top of your cross brace should be level with the top of your vertical 18" 2x4 boards. Prepare the arm. Take your 30" 2x4 and measure 2. Attach a cup or launching basket. Screw a plastic cup to the center of the flat side of your 2x4. This should also be the opposite side from where you drilled a hole through the short side of your 2x4.

Feel free to experiment with other materials and holding devices, like baskets, bowls, and cases. Drill a hole in the base. Drill a 1" hole in each side of the base into the end with your triangular support. This hole will need to be centered 6" from the end of the 36" piece where the end of your plywood triangle should also end.

Then measure 2. Pad the arm. The arm of your catapult operates by being pulled or winched back after applying tension to the rope that will be laced through the frame.

Where the throwing arm of your catapult meets your cross brace, it's a good idea to add padding, like a blanket or several layers of wrapped rags. This will prevent your catapult from doing damage to itself when the arm is pulled back, released, and comes in contact with the cross brace.

Part 4. Lace the rope. You will need about 20' of rope to complete the lacing process. Tie the rope around your broomstick handle, then take it through the hole in the right side of the base, through the hole you drilled in the arm of the catapult, out the opposite side of the base and back out to your second broomstick handle. Loop it around your second handle, then take it back through the frame to your first handle, where you will loop the cord again.

Do this several times. Kernmantle rope, like parachute cord, is an excellent option. While lacing, don't worry about keeping the rope tight. When you turn your handles, you will tighten the rope and apply launching force. Use an over under motion to complete lacing. After you have run your cord through the base of your catapult and throwing arm several times to secure it to the frame and arm, starting with your second handle, bring the end of your cord around the second handle in a loop that passes through the hole in your frame and under the throwing arm, passing through to the hole on the other side to loop around your first handle.

Continue this motion, following each over-lacing of the arm with an under-lacing with each pass of the cord through the frame. This should form a figure eight shape with your rope where you can clearly see the rope twisting together.

The more twists you add through your over and under motion, the more tension and greater force your catapult will have. After securing your rope to arm and frame, you should not continue threading your line through the throwing arm. To achieve the tension necessary to throw a projectile, you must finish lacing by going through the frame holes, around the broom handles in loops, and over and under the throwing arm.

Make sure your loops stay anchored around your broom handles. Knot the end of your cord to the side of the arm. When you are reaching the end of your rope, wrap it around the strings to one side of your catapult, then cross over and do the same on the other side. Now you can knot the end of your cord, ensuring it won't come lose with the added benefit of keeping your rope orderly. Add a catch for your throwing arm. As you twist your handles, the torsion of the rope will cause your throwing arm to ascend until its tension holds it against the cross brace.

First allow your arm to rest fully back in the launching position and judge where to best install your catch, then drill a hole and insert your hook. By installing a catch to the rear of your frame, you won't have to pull the arm back to launch your payload.

Simply release the catch after applying tension, and your arm will spring forward, stopping at the cross brace and launching your payload. Arm your catapult and apply torsion. Your handles should now be off to each side of your catapult base, parallel to your 36" pieces and attached to the frame and throwing arm by rope. Turn the handles to create torsion in the rope. Yes, as long as you use similar proportions. Keep in mind that a smaller catapult will not be very strong, nor will it be able to throw as far.

Not Helpful 61 Helpful It is not recommended. The slightly flexible rope is good for strength and support. It gives the catapult momentum when it is tightly coiled. Not Helpful 66 Helpful Stronger stature and a stronger material to pull back the arm of the catapult. Not Helpful 33 Helpful